Finely dice the onion, carrot and celery and sweat in oil over medium-low heat for a full 12 minutes. This base is the backbone; rushing it costs you the whole dish.

Add the garlic for a minute, then the tomato paste. Fry the paste, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until it darkens to brick red and smells sweet.

Add the lentils, crushed tomatoes, water, soy sauce and oregano.

Simmer uncovered for 30-35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are soft and the sauce holds its shape on a spoon.

Season well. Vegan sauces need more salt than meat ones.

Cook the spaghetti, then finish it in the sauce for a final minute with a splash of pasta water.