Beat the eggs only until just combined — over-beating makes them thin and watery.

Melt the butter in a cold non-stick pan over LOW heat. Add the eggs before the butter foams.

Stir slowly and constantly with a spatula, scraping the base and folding inwards. Nothing will happen for two minutes. Be patient.

When curds begin forming, keep moving. The whole process should take 5-6 minutes.

Take the pan off the heat while the eggs still look slightly underdone and glossy — they carry on cooking in the pan.

Season now, not earlier: salting raw eggs draws out water. Pile onto toast and scatter with chives.