Cacio e Pepe

Bring a wide pan of water to the boil and salt it less than usual — the cheese is already salty.

Toast the black pepper in a dry frying pan over medium heat for about 40 seconds, until fragrant. Turn off the heat.

Cook the spaghetti until 2 minutes short of the packet time, then lift it straight into the pepper pan. Reserve a large mug of pasta water.

Add a splash of pasta water and toss hard for a minute so the starch loosens.

Take the pan completely off the heat and wait 30 seconds — this is the step people skip. Cheese added to a hot pan splits.

Add the finely grated cheese in three handfuls, tossing continuously and adding pasta water a spoonful at a time, until a glossy sauce coats every strand.

Serve immediately. It waits for nobody.